Loading ...I wouldn’t through caution to the wind just yet. We are moving toward the end result that wi catch many unprepared. People’s reaction reminds me of one evening before dust while surfing there was a rouge surfer out there purposely running into other people boards. Every time they went to catch a wave here he came and became obvious he was doing it on purpose and the guys getting a bit wound up about it not knowing what he’d do next. Instead of a fight I decides to take it from there. They paddled in I paddled out and everyone just watched. I decided to draw the bully to me to see what if any skill he had. He watched me intensely while I just floated waiting for a wave. He started moving closer and closer to me and obvious I was going to be next. I watched the patterns as I liked to take the last waves in the sets. I started to move as to look like this is it and he moved to take the wave as well but I dropped off while it was too late for him and in his confusion he fell then having one wave after another pound down on him and I would take the last and move farther down with him in anger paddling to catch up to where I was. This went on for awhile. In his last attempt the was a wave coming a good one and took it. He about 15 ft away had that look like yeah your gonna pretend your gonna take it but you won’t but I did and saw him struggling to try to catch it but too late for him. He missed the wave that took me awhile down the beach which after he gave up. I had a long walk back and was using a 10 footer then. Guess this is what’s happening in reverse now where everyone’s watching the bully. Is this it? Who cares for now just watch the waves.
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