Loading ...Yeah I saw that, it’s all over. One wom a think it was a 500 dollar bet on some wild ones where you think about it and really not a good idea cuz they think they’ll win on your expense but cant remember their names much anymore because they changed during time as retired or gone now and places like the big waves here were hidden from media and money hunters through competition for years. But people not in shape or can’t hold their breath long enough occasionally drown. Anyways he got out there himself took the wave and won the bet. Good for him.
One Hawaiian friend from work years ago now who rode big waves around the world. Not all looking for fame told me 70 footers came in here and one guy went alone like I did once but he sounded like a natural but you don’t start with big waves or go alone and even the experienced can need or appreciate help out and he went alone. Sadly he washed up on the beach. Looking back since he didn’t have a car at the time I don’t know if he wanted me to take him there or not. If he did he should of said something besides surfs up cuz I wasn’t doing it anymore as no one covering the last youngest child of something happened out there and no longer in that shape you needed to be in. It made the contractions giving birth something doctors never seen and documented it. I didn’t want to go through that again until I wasn’t gonna have any more but by then too latem I would of took him though and back.
Surfs up and casualties could happen. One guy multi rears ago a Asian new guy but wanting fame and money trying to cut in on a wave a surfer was taking. A well known amongst surfers level headed not ego headed so he had to pull back. Wasn’t coincidence. That’s dangerous cutting in front of someone like that especially 50-70 foot waves you don’t want to wipe out like that. It back fired on him and he wiped out. No one even knew he was missing for awhile. Another surfer in hindsight thought he may have bumped into him under water as he was making his way out himself. The real surfer took another wave and rode it in. I think he was the same one leaving on a helicopter looking down could see something under water and questions came up where’s that guy.
There’s been at least on serious injury of a fractured hip on impact that a go fund me for intense medical care to repair it. It’s just something in you that wants to go when you want to go so you do.
Buygold made me wonder after him finding out about his neck And boats and all the times I held longer heavier surfboard back in the days over my head when I rode waves a mile out and then you have to walk back.